From the moment I first spotted an elegant wine barrel coffee table, I dreamed of building one that felt more like fine furniture and reflected my style. In this guide, How to Create a Custom Wine Barrel Coffee Table, I’ll walk you through every step—combining photos from several tables I’ve made—to show you exactly how to remove odours, cut and sand the barrel, craft graceful arch legs, and finish your piece with stain, polyurethane, decorative bands and a personalised resin-sealed decal.

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How to Create a Custom Wine Barrel Coffee Table

Updated 8/8/2025

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Materials Needed

• Wine barrel (red-wine seasoned)
• Ratchet straps, angle grinder with cutting disc
• Jigsaw & pilot-drill bits
• Orbital sander with 120–320 grit discs
• Thick hardwood (≥40 mm) or laminated timber for legs
• Compass for arch layout
• Old bed slat (20 mm thick) for leg base
• Wood router with round-over bit
• Cedar-tone stain & satin polyurethane
• Black spray paint (for bands)
• Truss-head screws
• Wood glue & pocket-hole jig
• Pocket screws, wood filler
• Hinges for tabletop attachment
• Reclaimed tabletop (min. 25 mm thick)
• Custom decal & epoxy resin kit
• Cricut vinyl cutter
• Safety gear: goggles, gloves, dust mask, hearing protection

Removing Stains and Smells

My wine barrel had previously held red wine and carried a strong odour inside. To neutralise it, I filled the barrel with water and a cup of bleach and left it to soak for 24 hours. That removed most of the smell, though a faint whiff lingered until later treatments.

I’ve had dehydrated barrels before, which makes this step tricky—the water seeps through gaps between the staves. The method still works; you just need to top the water up more often. Leaving the barrel outside, full of water, in the sun helps the staves swell and seal the gaps.

Sanding the Wine Barrel

Sanding the wine barrel can be done at two stages: before cutting or after cutting.
Sanding before cutting lets you remove the middle bands and sand the entire surface in long, even passes for a smoother finish; the trade-off is the curved barrel wants to roll and shift, even when braced.

If you remove the bands, number them so they can be reinserted in the same position for a snug, accurate fit. To remove the bands, place a block of wood on the lip of the hoop and tap the block with a hammer, working evenly around the barrel. Refit them the same way

Sanding after cutting is easier because each half sits flat on the bench; however, working right up to the bands can chew through sanding discs if they catch, or leave scratches on the bands—fine if you’re chasing a rustic look.

Cutting the wine barrel in half

Before cutting, fix the bands to the staves. Drill pilot holes through each band on both sides of the cut, then drive self-drilling button-head screws into every stave. If you skip this, the barrel will fall apart once cut. Make sure the bung/plug hole sits at the bottom or will be hidden under the apron.

Mark the true centre so you don’t have to rip any staves lengthwise. Fit ratchet straps—those bands are under tension, and the final cut can pop. Use an angle grinder with a cutting disc to cut the bands.

Before releasing the straps, drill a pilot hole large enough for a jigsaw blade at the centre of the top and bottom of the barrel, then cut them with the jigsaw.

Crafting the Arch Legs

Thick hardwood (I laminated two 20 mm boards) supports the barrel’s weight. Mark the barrel’s mid-width and desired lift (40 mm).

On your timber blank (880 mm length), draw a semicircular arch with a compass, leaving extra at each end for sloping.

If you’re adept, tilt the jigsaw blade to match the barrel’s curve; otherwise, cut straight and refine by sanding. Use the compass to mark side slopes before final cutting.

Perfecting Leg Fit

Cut a bed-slat segment to 884 × 80 × 20 mm and router all edges with a round-over bit for elegance. Centre and clamp the leg assembly, then drill and screw through the slat into each arch leg. To match the barrel’s curve, hold the leg assembly against the barrel and sand the inner slope with an angle-grinder sanding disc until flush.

To finish the legs neatly, I used an old bed slat cut to 884 mm (L) × 80 mm (W) × 20 mm (Thick), which leaves a 20 mm gap all the way around. I ran a round-over bit on the router to soften the edges. I centred the leg on the base, clamped it, then drilled from underneath and screwed everything together. Because parts of the barrel surface weren’t level, I had a lot of sanding to do. To speed it up, I used an angle grinder with a sanding disc. Keep shaping the slope on the inside of the legs until you get a clean, snug fit.

Staining and Painting the Barrel

Sand the bands with 180-grit, then spray them matte black.
The easiest setup is to cover the barrel with newspaper, lay each band on the protected surface, and spray—then leave them there to dry.

Since the top and bottom bands can’t be removed, mask the surrounding wood with newspaper (and tape) and spray them in place. Apply light, even coats to avoid overspray.

Stain all exterior wood surfaces with cedar-tone stain; wipe off excess. To make your project more visually interesting and secure the hoops, you can use self-drilling button head screws.

First, create a template from cardboard to ensure your screws are evenly spaced. Use this template as a guide to drill through each stave.

The uniform spacing will create a subtle studded effect that adds a professional, finished look to your work.

After thorough drying, apply two coats of satin polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.

Securing Barrel to Legs

Position the barrel on the leg assembly, ensure level, then pre-drill from inside the barrel into the leg centres. Start with a small bit to confirm alignment, then use long screws (four per leg) to fasten. Inside the barrel, sand and seal with two coats of satin polyurethane to eliminate any remaining odours.

I wasn’t sure the legs would carry the barrel’s weight, so on the first build, I added a support beam under the barrel between the legs (see photo) and screwed it in from the top and sides. Later builds were fine without it, but the beam is a good idea—it stiffens the legs and adds stability.

Building the Apron

Cut timber strips—two at 780 × 90 × 20 mm and two at 880 × 90 × 20 mm—for the lid lip. Join with pocket holes, glue and screws.

Next, line the lip up in the right spot and drill through it into the barrel. Then I filled the screw holes with wood filler, stained the lip, and added two coats of satin polyurethane. Inside the barrel, I also glued in a strip of wood and fixed it with screws to help keep the barrel in shape, as I wasn’t sure it might move.

I ran a router with a round-over bit to soften all the edges.

Making the tabletop

My tabletop was an old coffee table I picked up for free (I show how I find them in this post). I like a thick top because it looks more high-end, but new timber is too expensive—using recycled timber saves a fortune.

They’re usually dented and scratched, but most dents lift easily: place a damp cloth over the dent and press with a hot iron—the steam raises the fibres. Once dry, give the surface a quick sand from 120 up to 320 grit, and it’s ready to reuse. Stain the tabletop with the stain of your choice.

Attaching the Tabletop

Centre your tabletop over the apron lip. Mark hinge locations, mortise shallow recesses with a chisel and hammer, then screw hinges into place. Ensure the lid opens smoothly.

Creating the Decal

To personalise the tabletop, I designed a decal in Microsoft Word and had it made online. To match the wine-barrel theme, I created a winery-style logo with our family name and the year we were married. If you’ve got a Cricut Explore Air™ 2, you can cut your decal—just make sure it has no border or background.

I stained the table, then sealed it with one coat of satin polyurethane. I learnt to seal first after a test run—without it, the stain bled into the decal, and it lifted while the resin cured. I applied the decal and poured the liquid glass according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The photos don’t do it justice; the glass-like surface reflected everything and was tricky to shoot.

I used Norglass Liquid Glass on the tabletop and got a perfect finish the first time—no additional sanding needed, which has never happened for me with epoxy resin. I’ve also found the surface doesn’t mark as easily as epoxy.

I made this wine barrel coffee table in 2016, and this photo—taken in August 2025—shows the surface is still perfect.

To finish the look, I added a few cast-iron studs to the sides.

The hinged lid opens for toy/blanket storage.

One of the wine barrel tables I made had a Greek key design carved into the tabletop with a router.

More wine barrel projects

I made this outdoor wine barrel table with a hidden ice bucket under the lid to chill drinks.

The bands are also great for making firewood stands.

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