I’ve recently discovered the traditional Japanese wood-burning technique known as Shou Sugi Ban, and I’ll be honest—I’m hooked. The textures, the contrast, and especially the unpredictable colour shifts when you layer vibrant stains like Unicorn Spit turn simple timber into art.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make a colourful Shou Sugi Ban wall hanging from scrap wood—the perfect statement piece to display under my pergola and a brilliant way to use up those off-cuts cluttering the workshop.

What Is Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi)?

Shou Sugi Ban (also called Yakisugi) is a centuries-old Japanese method where timber is charred to preserve and waterproof it. Traditionally done with Japanese cedar and finished with natural oils, the deep, crackled char resists rot, pests and weather. Modern makers also use it decoratively. By controlling the burn, brushing back the char, and adding vibrant stains, you can transform ordinary off-cuts—even budget pine—into striking wall art with dramatic grain and colour.

How to Make a Colourful Shou Sugi Ban Wall Art from Scrap Wood

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Materials Needed

• Scrap wood (various sizes and types)
• Map gas blowtorch
• Wire brush and coarse nylon flap brush (for a drill or drill press)
• Safety gear – gloves, respirator, glasses
• Unicorn Spit or other wood stains
• Spray bottle (filled with water)
• Foam sponges
• 12mm plywood sheet (for the base)
• Wood glue
• Hot glue gun and full glue sticks
• Oil-based clear varnish or tung oil (to seal)
• mitre saw
• Drum sander with nylon brush
• Jig saw

Step 1 – Burn the Wood

Start by choosing a mix of scrap timber in different sizes and species. Using varied thicknesses adds dimension and interest.

Burn each piece with a blowtorch until the surface blackens and begins to crack. Make sure to do this in a safe, fireproof area. I used a metal sheet on my workbench

Step 2 – Clean Off the Char

This part is messy, so wear old clothes and protective gear. Begin with a wire brush, brushing along the grain to remove the charred layer.

For a deeper texture, use a coarse nylon flap brush attached to a drill or drill press. This saves your arms from aching and gives great detail.

The goal is to expose the woodgrain while keeping the burnt lines dark.

The result? A gorgeous contrast between the black grain and light timber below. Leave some darker areas for added depth.

This image shows how much dust this technique creates, so using a respirator and safety glasses is important. The goal is to sand each piece until you reach the pale, raw timber beneath the charred surface. The woodgrain will remain dark, creating a striking contrast. Using a coarse flap wheel brush makes this process much easier and gives the wood a beautifully textured finish. For more depth and colour variation, you can choose to leave some darker, lightly charred areas untouched.

Keep in mind, this isn’t a quick job. Depending on the wood species and how deep your burn is, the sanding can take several hours. But the end result is absolutely worth the effort.

If you have a restorer’s sander, it cuts the sanding time down dramatically. Fit a coarse nylon abrasive drum (around 80–120 grit) to strip the loose char without gouging. Keep the tool moving with the grain, and wear a respirator—this step throws a lot of dust.

Step 3 – Add Colour to the Wood

To colour the wood, I tried several methods and products. There are so many variables that affect the final result, I decided to create a separate post just for that. It covers all the techniques I used and how different factors, like burn depth, wood type, and application, can completely change the colours.

This is where the magic happens. I used Unicorn Spit stain and glaze, which works best on damp wood. Mist the timber lightly with water, then apply colour using a wet foam sponge. Swipe it across the wood in patches—don’t overdo it or you’ll lose the textured effect.

Let the stain sit for a minute, then wipe off the excess. The colours will appear dull at first, but once sealed, they’ll come to life in the most vibrant way.

Step 4 – Create your design

Cut a sheet of 12mm plywood to your desired size. Mine was a 1m square. I cut the wood into small pieces and arranged the layout as I worked, fitting everything together like a colourful, textured puzzle. Mixing different shapes, sizes, and colours gave the design a more dynamic and eye-catching look.

I originally cut some pieces at a 45-degree angle to add more interest to the design. But I ended up with too many small gaps that were difficult to fill, so I scrapped that idea and switched back to straight cuts for a cleaner finish.

Once you’re happy with your layout, use a marker to trace the outline directly onto the base. This will give you the exact shape you need to cut. Before removing the pieces, take a quick photo of the design so you can easily recreate the layout later. Then, carefully slide the pieces off the base.

Now you can cut along the traced outline using a jigsaw. It’s also a good idea to burn the base before attaching the pieces—this helps hide any small gaps where the lighter wood might otherwise show through.

Step 5 – Attach the wood

Glue each piece to the plywood backing using wood glue. I added two dots of hot glue to each end to hold them in place while the wood glue dried. Avoid using nails—they spoil the finish.

Step 6 – Seal and Finish

Once your wall art is assembled, it’s time to seal it. I used an oil-based clear varnish, which made the colours from the Unicorn Spit really pop. Don’t use a water-based sealer, or it will reactivate the stain and smudge the colours. Tung oil is a good alternative.

The transformation is incredible once sealed. The wood glows with colour, depth, and texture.

Finished Shou Sugi Ban Wall Hanging

Here’s a close-up of the final piece. Depending on the light and angle, the colours shift and change—almost like looking at stained glass made of wood.

Depending on the angle and the light, the colours will look different.

More Ideas Using Shou Sugi Ban

This project ended up with a striking snakeskin effect, thanks to the combination of the Shou Sugi Ban burn and grooved carving technique.

This is another Shou Sugi Ban project where I used a gouge ball to carve deeper patterns into the wood, adding even more texture and detail to the design.

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