Patio coolers made from old eskies are all over Pinterest, but I wanted to make something larger and more eye-catching. That’s why I created this Ned Kelly-themed patio cooler using a broken freezer—a fun, functional and totally unique addition to any outdoor space. With plenty of room for drinks and ice, a drain tap, and rustic style, this DIY patio cooler is perfect for your next backyard party.

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How to Make a Themed Patio Cooler Using a Recycled Freezer

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Materials Needed

• Old broken freezer
• Recycled wood (bed slats, table legs, scrap timber)
• Thickness planer (optional)
• Table saw
• Wood glue
• Pocket hole jig + screws
• Nail gun + compressor (or hammer and nails)
• Hinges (heavy-duty)
• Handle
• Swivel casters
• Outdoor wood varnish
• Silicone sealer
• Gel medium (for image transfer)
• Tap and plumbing fittings (PVC pipe, clear tubing, clamps)
• Wood filler
• Random orbital sander + sanding discs (180 & 240 grit)
• Router + round-over bit
• Bottle opener
• Bleach (for cleaning interior)
• Drill + countersink bit

Step 1: Find a Freezer

Check your local Facebook Marketplace or community group. I asked for a broken freezer and picked one up the same day—free! It doesn’t need to work; just have a solid shell. I considered using an esky or fridge, but chose a freezer for the extra space and cleaner interior without door shelves.

Step 2: Strip It Down

Start by removing the compressor and internal elements. Simply cut the copper pipes and pull out any shelves or baskets.

Seal the holes inside with silicone and plastic patches cut from shelf supports. Clean it thoroughly using bleach and let it dry.

Step 3: Build the Base Frame

Use recycled timber where possible. I cut old bed slats in half and ran them through a thickness planer to even them out. Thick wood is best for supporting the weight of the ice-filled cooler.

Flip the freezer upside down and build a sturdy base using a pocket hole jig, wood glue, and screws. I used the base of the freezer as a guide to cutting the wood.

Step 4: Attach the Legs

This is where I made my first mistake. I tend to build my projects as I go, which means not everything always works out perfectly. I reused some old table legs as supports for the base, but I attached them incorrectly. The legs should be mounted on the outside of the frame—both at the top and bottom—not on the sides.

To avoid splitting the timber, I drilled pilot holes first and used a countersink drill bit so the screw heads would sit flush. This is important later when adding the side slats, as raised screws can cause alignment issues.

Wrong positioning of legs.

When attaching your legs, make sure to leave a gap at the top equal to the thickness of the timber you’ll use for the apron. In my case, that was 2cm.

Refer to the image below to see the correct way to position the legs. It’s also a good idea to do a test fit now to make sure your freezer fits snugly inside the frame before moving on.

Correct leg positioning.

Step 5: Add Leg Supports

The next step was to add wood supports between the legs to stabilise the frame. I used scrap wood from my offcut pile for this, since the supports aren’t visible in the finished piece.

I followed the same process as before—drilling pilot holes and countersinking screws—to ensure the screw heads sat flush with the surface. This stage gives you a clearer look at the gap left for the apron. Make sure not to include the lid when measuring this gap; it only needs to accommodate the apron timber.

To prevent the freezer from shifting inside the frame, I added stop blocks to the inside of the legs. These blocks hold the freezer securely in place without being seen from the outside.

Step 6: Box It In

I cut all the slats to the size I needed for the sides, but I’m not including exact measurements because they’ll vary depending on your freezer. I cut mine to fit neatly between the top and bottom frame supports. To attach the slats, I used a nail gun connected to a compressor, but you can also use a hammer and nails if that’s what you have on hand.

I started with the front panel first, leaving a slight overhang on both sides equal to the thickness of the timber I was using. I repeated the same process for the back. One of the middle slats needed to be trimmed slightly to fit into the remaining space. I installed the side slats last. Because of the front and back overhangs, the side panels sat flush, creating a cleaner and more polished look.

Step 7: Make and Attach the Apron

Build a top frame using 2 cm-thick timber. Use a pocket hole jig and glue to assemble, making it slightly larger than the box. Drill pilot holes and countersink screws to attach it. Fill holes with wood filler. Remove the original freezer hinges—mine prevented the lid from opening fully.

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Build a thinner timber frame around the lid, just like you did for the base. Using thinner wood makes the lid lighter and easier to lift. Once the frame is assembled, glue and nail the slats across the top to cover it. Start at the outer edges and work your way inward. This ensures even spacing and a balanced look—any smaller filler piece will blend in better at the centre than it would on just one side.

Secure the frame to the original freezer lid using long screws driven through the timber and into the internal lid structure. To finish, sand the entire surface smooth using 180 grit sanding discs, followed by 240 grit for a polished result.

Step 9: Add Drainage

To drain the water from melted ice, I had to come up with a simple plumbing solution. I used a PVC elbow joint connected to clear flexible tubing, which I clamped at both ends—one to the PVC pipe and the other to a small tap using ring clamps. I originally tried to connect the tap directly to the PVC pipe, but couldn’t find a fitting that worked, so the flexible tubing was the best solution.

To install the drainage system, I drilled a hole through the base of the freezer using a hole saw the same diameter as the PVC pipe. I inserted the pipe and sealed around it with silicone sealer to prevent any leaks. To keep the tap in place, you can secure it to the wooden frame with a U-shaped hinge or bracket. Once everything is assembled, it’s a good idea to test for leaks. Fill the cooler with water and place it on a concrete surface—any dripping will be easy to spot.

Step 10: Final Touches

Use a router with a round-over bit to smooth the edges. Install heavy-duty hinges to the outside of the lid and add swivel casters for easy movement. Finish with a handle, a bottle opener, and two coats of outdoor varnish to seal and protect the wood.

Optional: Add Themed Artwork

I chose a Ned Kelly theme for this build because almost every man cave or home bar in Australia features Ned Kelly memorabilia, so it adds character and also makes the cooler easier to sell later.

To create the artwork, I used gel medium to transfer images directly onto the timber. It took a few attempts to get it right, but the result was well worth the effort. If you’re new to this technique, check out my detailed guide on image transfer methods here to see which one works best for your next project.

Side View of Box

Similar themed DIY project ideas

This outdoor bar table was built using mostly recycled and upcycled materials, making it an eco-friendly and stylish addition to any backyard.

This wall bar was made from recycled pallet wood and is great for outdoor entertaining.

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