This DIY Shou Sugi Ban picture frame marries the ancient Japanese art of wood charring with my love of the South African bush. After discovering the technique on Pinterest, I couldn’t resist giving it a go, even as a complete beginner. I kept things simple; I chose a Shou Sugi Ban picture frame as my first project. I used dramatic burnt timber to frame a ‘Walking in Savannah’ canvas sponsored by Photowall, bringing my bedroom to life.

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What Is Shou Sugi Ban?

Shou Sugi Ban is an 18th‑century Japanese method of preserving wood by charring its surface. Traditionally used on cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), the wood is burned until charred, then coated with oil. The result is a pest and rot‑resistant, water‑repellent finish with dramatic charcoal colouring. Modern makers adapt the technique to create striking textures and contrasts on various wood species.

Stunning DIY Shou Sugi Ban Picture Frame Tutorial

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Materials Needed

• Scrap timber or cedar planks (decking boards work)
• Thickness planer or sandpaper (to level decking ridges)
• Blowtorch
• Wire brush (hand‑held)
• Coarse nylon flap brush (drill attachment)
• Drop saw (45° bevel cuts)
• Pocket hole jig, screws and wood glue
• Metal brace plates
• Leather laces and shoe eyelets
• Multipurpose glue
• Clear wax or natural oil (for sealing)
• Self‑adhesive velcro tape
• Protective metal sheets or a stand‑alone work surface
• Safety glasses and a respirator
• Craftsman restorer

Find and Prepare Wood

I tested different scraps to see how each timber burned. Pine gave me the deepest, most dramatic charring effect. My scrap decking planks were rough, so I ran them through a thickness planer to remove ridges and equalise thickness.

Safety Precautions

Protect your work surface with metal sheets or work outside on concrete. Keep flammables well away. Wear safety glasses and a respirator if you burn large pieces in a confined space. I prefer MAP gas because it has a higher flame temperature and chars wood faster than propane or butane, although both alternatives can still get the job done.

Burn the Wood

Begin at one end and torch steadily along the grain until the surface cracks and bubbles. Don’t forget to char the edges for an even finish, repeating this on every frame piece. Tip: Keep the flame moving—if you linger in one spot, the timber can overheat, crack along the grain or bow on longer lengths.

Remove the Charred Layer

Use a wire brush to scrub away every flake of char, working with the grain to unveil the clean wood beneath. This step is wildly messy—best tackled outdoors—since you’ll end up caked in soot; my husband joked I looked like a miner, with only my goggles and mask shielding my face.

After brushing away the charred surface (see image below), you can start digging past the burnt layer to reveal the natural wood colour beneath.

Hold the drill‑mounted nylon flap brush flat against the timber and work with the grain. Vary your number of passes to strip away more—or less—char; either way, the grain lines will remain a deep, rich black.

It is hard to tell from the image below, but the lighter wood is at least 3mm deeper than the darker wood. So you have some great texture on the surface.

Update: I’ve become completely hooked on Shou Sugi Ban and have crafted many unique projects using this technique. If you plan to char wood regularly, I highly recommend swapping your wire brush for a Craftsman Restorer tool—it clears away all the charred wood in a fraction of the time.

You’re free to leave the timber its natural shade or apply coloured stains for a customised finish—this time I’ve kept it bare. I have experimented with adding colours to Shou Sugi Ban; you can see my results in this tutorial.

Cut and Join the Frame

Measure your canvas (1200 mm × 700 mm) and cut timber at 45° angles on a drop saw.

Use a pocket hole jig, glue and screws to join corners tightly.

Add metal brace plates for extra support if you are doing a large frame like mine. I chose to let the canvas sit slightly raised above the frame for added depth.

Adding the laces

For a custom touch, I threaded leather laces through each corner. First, I cut a scrap piece at a 45° angle and marked my hole positions on it. Then I used that offcut as a drilling template to ensure perfectly even spacing on every corner.

If you’d prefer to skip the laces, burn the corners a bit darker for definition—but be cautious: I tried this first and found the deeper char overwhelmed the leather, so I sanded mine back to a lighter tone.

I inserted shoe eyelets for a clean, professional finish. Using a drill bit sized to the eyelet barrel, I drilled each hole, pressed in the eyelets with a dab of multipurpose glue, and wiped away any excess adhesive for a crisp look.

Sealing the Wood

Although Shou Sugi Ban finish is naturally durable, I chose to seal mine to even out the colour variation—my side planks had a warmer, orange tint compared to the top and bottom pieces. I tested clear wax on offcuts and found it blended the tones beautifully.

To seal, apply a thin layer of clear wax with a rag or soft brush, rubbing it into the grain. Let it sit for a minute, then buff off any excess with a clean, soft cloth. This simple step harmonises the hues and adds a subtle, protective sheen.

You can now thread the laces through the holes and staple the ends to the back of the frame.

Add Back Supports

Since the canvas isn’t boxed into the frame, I fashioned sturdy back supports from aluminium scraps left over from my wine barrel tables. I cut each strip to size and screwed them across the back corners, then applied self‑adhesive Velcro tape to both the canvas stretcher and the aluminium braces to hold the artwork securely. This setup also makes swapping prints effortless—just peel off one canvas and stick on a new design from Photowall’s extensive collection whenever you’re ready for a fresh look.

Completed Shou Sugi Ban picture frame

More shou sugi ban project Ideas

Driven by my artistic instinct, I immediately tackled a Shou Sugi Ban wall‑art piece. For this project, I repurposed scrap wood, stained each offcut, and arranged them into a striking mosaic design.

I achieved a mesmerising abalone effect by routing grooves into the Shou Sugi Ban surface, then applying a single coat of colour that revealed a rich spectrum of hues. For more ideas, search Shou Sugi Ban in my search bar.

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